CENTELLA ASIATICA EXOSOMES – A biomimetic vector component with high regenerative activity. Exosomes are extracellular vesicles that are secreted by plant cells and carry highly active signalling molecules: microRNAs, lipids, proteins, enzymes and peptides. Exosomes from Centella asiatica are obtained by membrane isolation and standardised filtration. These vesicles retain the biological activity of the key components of centella – madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and phytosterols – while being packaged in a natural lipid shell that provides deep, targeted penetration into the skin. Exosomes have high bioavailability, ensuring targeted delivery of regenerative signals to skin cells.
The main mechanisms of action of centella exosomes in damaged skin:
1. Stimulation of reparative processes. Exosomes activate the expression of genes associated with tissue repair and extracellular matrix remodelling (MMPs, TIMPs, TGF-β, VEGF). This accelerates fibroblast proliferation and the synthesis of collagen types I and III, as well as fibronectin and laminin – key proteins of the dermal architecture.
2. Enhancement of angiogenesis. Through the activation of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), exosomes support the restoration of microcirculation in damaged skin, which is critical under conditions of hypoxia following professional treatments (lasers, dermabrasion, chemical peels and similar).
3. Soothing effect. Centella exosomal components help limit the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6, IL-1β) and reduce the activation of the NF-κB signalling pathway, which supports a rapid decrease in visible redness and swelling.
4. Strengthening the barrier function. Exosomes stimulate lipid synthesis in the stratum corneum and accelerate the restoration of cell-to-cell junctions, thereby helping to restore the skin barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
5. Antioxidant protection and protection against photodamage. Asiaticoside and madecassoside in exosomes are able to neutralise free radicals and enhance the activity of the skin’s own antioxidant enzymes (catalase, superoxide dismutase).
REJUVENAD™ COMPLEX – COSMOS approved and NATRUE certified.
RejuveNAD™ is a complex that stimulates the expression of NAMPT, the enzyme responsible for NAD⁺ synthesis in skin cells, thereby supporting the intracellular NAD⁺ pool. NAD⁺ is central to mitochondrial function and to the activation of sirtuins – proteins that regulate cell survival, DNA repair and energy metabolism. Its level declines with age, which slows cell renewal. Raising intracellular NAD⁺ levels supports the energy apparatus of the cell, strengthens antioxidant defence and helps restore metabolic homeostasis – particularly relevant for mature and stressed skin.
In the supplier’s in vitro studies the complex showed reduced DNA damage, reduced epigenetic alterations and cellular senescence, and improved cell viability. In ex vivo studies it showed reduced mitochondrial damage, increased levels of sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) – a protein regulating the ageing of skin cells – and increased collagen XVII levels and collagen density.
RejuveNAD™ addresses five hallmarks of skin ageing at once: mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alterations and genomic instability.
In the supplier’s clinical study, skin appeared up to 8 years younger after 42 days of use.
BIOMIMETIC PEPTIDES:
Used together, these peptides help calm the skin, support the synthesis of structural proteins and limit the formation of new expression lines.
- Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) is a biomimetic neuropeptide that helps visibly soften expression lines. It works on a presynaptic principle: the six-amino-acid chain of the hexapeptide mimics a fragment of the SNAP-25 protein, limiting the transmission of the nerve impulse that triggers the repeated micro-contractions of the mimic musculature responsible for expression lines.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is a tetrapeptide of four amino acids linked to palmitic acid, which provides better penetration through the lipid barrier of the skin. It helps limit the activation of NF-κB (nuclear factor kappa-B), a protein complex with a key role in inflammatory processes. Reduced NF-κB activity lowers the expression of genes responsible for IL-6 synthesis, which helps limit chronic low-grade inflammation and slow inflammation-driven skin ageing (inflammaging). It also helps limit the breakdown of the extracellular matrix (ECM) by slowing the activity of MMP (matrix metalloproteinase) enzymes that break down collagen and other dermal proteins.
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (Syn®-Coll) mimics the natural signal peptides that activate TGF-β (transforming growth factor beta). TGF-β is a key factor triggering the expression of genes responsible for collagen synthesis. When palmitoyl tripeptide-5 binds to TGF-β receptors, it “switches on” the synthesis of new collagen. It also inhibits the activity of MMP-1 (collagenase), the enzyme that breaks down collagen fibres, which helps preserve existing collagen, strengthen the dermis and improve skin texture. It provides a “fibroblast-like” effect, activating reparative processes in the dermis.
ESCIN – An active component from horse chestnut seeds with soothing properties that help support the resilience of skin prone to visible capillaries and help reduce the appearance of puffiness. Escin helps support the tone of the vascular wall and the stability of the capillary endothelium by limiting the activity of enzymes (hyaluronidase, elastase) that degrade the extracellular matrix. This helps limit the release of plasma into the intercellular space and visibly reduces puffiness in areas of skin that are reactive or have been traumatised by professional treatments.
By modulating the activity of pro-inflammatory mediators (TNF-α, IL-1β), inhibiting 5-lipoxygenase and reducing leukotriene synthesis, escin helps reduce visible redness, the sensation of burning and subjective skin sensitivity, and helps limit the chronic micro-inflammation associated with skin ageing.
Escin neutralises reactive oxygen species and stabilises cell membranes, protecting lipid structures from peroxidation. By supporting the tone of the vascular wall and reducing congestion, escin contributes to a better supply of oxygen and nutrients to the tissues. This accelerates reparative processes and supports the viability of dermal and epidermal cells.
CYANOCOBALAMIN (vitamin B12) – A water-soluble compound that plays a key role in a number of biochemical processes affecting the regeneration and functional condition of the skin.
1. Support for cell division and tissue repair. Vitamin B12 is required for DNA and RNA synthesis through its role in folate and methionine metabolism. This is especially important for cells with a high renewal rate, such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Where ageing or skin damage has slowed mitotic activity, cyanocobalamin supports accelerated renewal of the epidermis and regeneration of the dermal matrix.
2. Optimisation of energy metabolism. Through its participation in the Krebs cycle and fatty acid metabolism, vitamin B12 supports ATP production in mitochondria – particularly important when the energy capacity of mature skin cells declines and when the energy demands of recovery increase.
3. Soothing and antioxidant action. Cyanocobalamin indirectly reduces levels of homocysteine, an amino acid that can drive oxidative stress and inflammation. This helps limit the activation of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which reduces the reactivity of sensitive skin and helps limit collagen degradation.
4. Neurotropic support and skin comfort. Vitamin B12 is known for its role in the physiology of peripheral nerve fibres. In topical formulations it is used to support the comfort of reactive skin – particularly relevant after aggressive professional treatments, when sensitivity temporarily increases.
5. Support of microcirculation and tissue nutrition. Vitamin B12 supports oxygen transport, which improves the oxygenation and nutrient supply of tissues and accelerates recovery.
MIMOSA BARK EXTRACT – Rich in flavonoids, triterpenes and trace elements, it has a pronounced antioxidant and regenerative action and helps support skin prone to visible capillaries. It enhances microcirculation, supports the skin’s natural recovery in affected areas and activates fibroblast proliferation.
INCI: Aqua, Propylene glycol, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus annuus sprout extract, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Pentylene glycol, Escin, Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract, Maltodextrin, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, DMDM Hydantoin, Centella asiatica leaf vesicles, Glycerin, Allantoin, Parfum, Cyanocobalamin, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
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