GRANACTIVE RETINOID 2% (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) – A latest-generation retinoid – the pinacolyl ester of all-trans retinoic acid. Unlike retinol, which requires a two-step enzymatic conversion in the skin, HPR binds directly to retinoid receptors. This accounts for its combination of pronounced activity with a low irritation potential. HPR regulates the transfer of genetic information from DNA to RNA and stimulates the synthesis of collagen, of moisture-binding glycosaminoglycans and of filaggrin – the protein that aggregates keratin filaments and serves as the source of the natural moisturising factor. It also inhibits the activity of matrix metalloproteinases – enzymes that degrade collagen and are activated by UVB radiation and other pathological factors. HPR helps to organise the stratum corneum, improving skin microrelief and texture. By supporting normal keratinisation, it helps prevent the clumping of corneocytes that can block follicular openings. It also helps to normalise sebum production, which reduces the appearance of acne-like breakouts. In addition, it contributes to a more even skin tone by influencing melanin distribution in the epidermis.

RENOVAGE™ (Teprenone) – An active complex based on teprenone, for dermal densification, restored turgor and firmness, and improved tissue quality. It acts at the level of the cell nucleus: stabilising telomeres and supporting DNA integrity, thereby slowing the replicative ageing of fibroblasts. In the supplier’s studies on fibroblast cultures, cell lifespan increased by approximately one third, and the slowing of cellular ageing was estimated at 3.5 months. The second mode of action of Renovage is modulation of the isoprenoid pathway (protein prenylation). Isoprenoid residues attach covalently to intracellular proteins and determine their anchoring in the membrane, which in turn governs the synthesis of extracellular matrix components and transmembrane carriers, and the quality of intercellular communication.

SWEET ALMOND OIL (Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil) – Sweet almond oil is a rich source of fatty acids, primarily oleic and linoleic. Oleic acid takes part in regulating cholesterol content within cell membranes and influences their fluidity, which supports the restoration of skin elasticity. In addition, the cis configuration of its double bond gives the oleic acid chain a spatial kink: its length decreases while the volume it occupies increases. This property accounts for the marked ability of oleic acid to penetrate the skin and for its enhancer properties – increasing the penetration of other components. Linoleic acid is incorporated into the acylceramides of the stratum corneum, where it acts as a structural ‘rivet’ binding the lipid lamellae of the barrier, and takes part in regulating keratinocyte differentiation. It has a soothing effect, reduces skin reactivity and supports the skin’s local defences. Sweet almond oil contains vitamin E (tocopherols) and phylloquinone – a form of vitamin K that helps support the resilience of the vascular wall and helps to reduce the visibility of couperose. The antioxidant activity of the oil is due to its high content of polyphenolic compounds – protocatechuic, p-hydroxybenzoic and vanillic acids. The particular quality of almond oil lies in its duality: on the one hand it is highly nourishing and softens the skin well, on the other it is very light, absorbs instantly and leaves no greasy feel.

GRAPE SEED OIL (Vitis vinifera seed oil) – The oil is obtained by cold pressing, which preserves the biologically active substances responsible for its regenerating, antioxidant and cytoprotective properties. It is rich in trace elements and macroelements, in essential linoleic acid (up to 70%) as well as oleic and palmitic acids, and contains vitamin E (tocopherols and tocotrienols), natural chlorophyll and polyphenols. The polyphenol fraction comprises proanthocyanidins – condensed tannins of the flavonoid group – and resveratrol, a stilbenoid; together they show a high degree of antioxidant activity and provide protection against free radicals. In laboratory studies, the radical-scavenging activity of proanthocyanidins exceeded the antioxidant potential of vitamins C and E. Resveratrol supports the natural synthesis of collagen, which is necessary for skin firmness and elasticity, and stimulates the activity of superoxide dismutase, which is able to neutralise free radicals and inhibit lipid peroxidation in the skin. Grape seed oil is very light, absorbs quickly and leaves no greasy film.

INCI: Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Dimethicone, Dicaprylyl ether, Dimethyl isosorbide, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil, Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed oil, Teprenone, Tocopherol.

Apply to cleansed, dry skin in the evening; after 10–15 minutes always follow with a cream. Increase the frequency of use gradually, according to skin sensitivity and the purpose of the treatment; adjust the course individually.

• Days 1–10 – once every three days;
• Days 11–20 – every other day;
• From day 21 – daily.

Full course – 60 days.

Precautions:

• Daily sun protection is essential throughout the course. HPR retinoid is not phototoxic, however renewed epidermis remains more vulnerable to UV exposure, and the molecule itself requires protection from light.
• Avoid the eye contour, the vermilion border of the lips and mucous membranes.
• Do not use as a conductive medium for device-based treatments.
• Suspend on the day of a chemical peel. During a course of TCA peels – suspend 48 hours before the procedure and until the skin has fully recovered (see FAQ).
• During the adaptation period, transient dryness, flaking, a feeling of tightness and mild tingling are possible. These are expected signs of a retinoid reaction: reduce the frequency of application rather than discontinuing the product (step-down schedule in the FAQ).